AmbiLED HD Settings

Important!

This article only for official AmbiLED HD Driver Software.
Please visit our other articles if you need:

 

 

Contents

If you finished AmbiLED HD Setup , now you are ready for software settings.

After the first run of AmbiLED Driver software, the software will  run on start-up automatically and you can find it on your tray bar.

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The driver software will not appear on your task bar.
So, If you click on anywhere when the settings window is open, The driver software will disappear automatically.

Right click on the AmbiLED icon. You will see the main settings.
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MAIN SETTINGS

1. Light Level

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You can change the LED brightness between %10-50 with these options. The ideal value is %15-20 for most of high brightness displays.
Remember, this is an ambient light system, the wall brightness must be less than your display brightness. The most common mistake is increasing the LED brightness, but it only draws your attention to out of the screen. So, choose the lowest possible value and find the balance between display and ambient light.

Auto mode is not active in this version.  We have a light sensor on the controller, So, we can write dynamic light level system in future.
C# developers are  welcome.

 

2. Aspect Ratio

Aspect ratio is important when you are watching different movie formats or windowed games.

For example: If you have a 16×9 HD monitor but you are watching 21×9 cinematic movie.
Our software offers 2 different methods for ratio selection.

Shortcut Method

  • Play your movie,
  • Move your mouse on the left-top edge of the movie
  • Press CTRL+ALT+F12 keys at the same time and release
  • The software will detect this key combination and read the movie ratio from your mouse position.

Aspect Ratio Menu Options

If you have any problem with the Shortcut Method, you can choose the ratio from the main menu. We have simple options in this version but they are enough for most of the movie formats.
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3. Modes

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AmbiLED driver software has 3 different working modes for your comfort.
Default:  Capturing the screen and driving the LEDs.
Sleep:  Stop capturing and disabling the LEDs. (minimum cpu usage)
Color Select: Choose any static color for your backlight.

Audio: This is an idea for future updates and it’s disabled now.

 4. Pseudo Full Screen

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This is one of the most innovative features of AmbiLED HD.
The software can force any windows software to expand to full screen. We call this method as “Pseudo Full Screen”.

You can find the list of expandable programs in this window. If you select any program from this menu, the driver software will detect your display size, delete all menu and border options of the selected window and stretch it to full screen.

This method works with most of windowed games. But, some games cannot detect the size changes and cannot work properly.
So, you should test it with your game. If it’s not working well, you can still use our aspect ratio option (CTRL+ALT+F12 on the left-top of the game window)

Tested games:
World Of Tanks: Working
Kerbal Space Program: Not Working
Robocraft: No need this method, working as windowless

Note
If you tested it with different games, please help us to update this list and make a comment at the bottom part of this page!

 

Driver Settings

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Press the “Settings” option on the main settings window.

Main Settings

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You can select the correct com port from here if you received any Com Port error when AmbiLED HD running.
And enable/disable “run on start-up” option.
Capture time and Transmit time values are for debugging  and finding the bottleneck  if any performance problem occurs.

If you cannot open the software you can edit config.ini file manually under the driver folder. Open the ini file with notepad and change the PortName =COM0 value with right one. 

LED Strip Settings

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Default LED counts are perfect  for 290cm LED strips.
So, you should set the right values before using your AmbiLED HD.
Count your LEDs and enter the values.
The Gap value must be zero if you don’t have any gap at the bottom-center.  Else, enter 1 for every 16mm space. For example, enter 3 for ~45-50mm Gap at the bottom.

Press the SAVE button to update the values. You can see the results in a second.
If you are not happy with these settings, you may change the values when you like to.

Current software is not using floating point algorithms to calculate LED positions for  less CPU usage and code simplicity.
Small position errors are normal. 

Advanced

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You don’t need think about it if you are not a developer.
And, test your new features here if you are a developer :)

About

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You can find your KS nick name in this tab if you are a backer of our Kickstarter Project.

Thank you for all backers.

Note
If you ran into any problems, please make a comment at the bottom part of this page!

18 thoughts on “AmbiLED HD Settings”

  1. My save button will not update or change anything on the strip. And when I close the open the program, it resets it to the default
    any help?

    1. Hi Casey,
      If you put the files into the restricted windows folders, you have to run the program as administrator to access config.ini file.
      “Run as administrator” windows option resolves these kind of problems.

  2. I’ve done some tests on my setup and have noticed a couple of things that seem a bit peculiar. First, there seems to be an offset by one LED e.g. if I have everything set to 0 except “FRAME_LED_BOTTOM_RIGHT” then FRAME_LED_BOTTOM_RIGHT must be equal to two for the first LED to turn on (then setting it to three will turn on the first two LEDs and so on). If it is set to one “1”, then nothing turns on when I click save. Also, if you ever get to the point where all the edges are set to 0 e.g. FRAME_LED_BOTTOM_RIGHT/LEFT/TOP/BOTTOM ect. the driver will hang and crash.

    Secondly, I’m not sure if I’m using the “gap” feature correctly…. I’ve got a TV hooked up with HDMI and it has 28, 37, 59, 37, 27 and then a gap of 5 LEDs going around it. If I put “5” in as the gap the last 5 LEDs (8cm gap by the stand) suddenly stop working and as I reduce the number of gap LEDs to 0 in the software the end LEDs on the 27 LED long section start working again (one at a time as I reduce the gap towards 0).

    Third, because I’m not using the standard setup (TV acting as a second monitor) I’ve noticed issues when I use any display mode other than “PC screen only”. The problem being that when I try to use “Extend” (or any other display mode) no matter how many times I click save/check the config file/update the number of LEDs in software/change the gap length, the last few (typically 2-3) LEDs on the final 27 long section don’t work in “default” mode, but work in “Colour Select” mode. Is there a way to select which monitor AmbiLED is to use?

    Possible Improvements:
    I found it a hassle to have to count out the LEDs on each edge of my TV, so if there was some test/debug method of setting a start and stop index that would light up the LEDs in the specified range and calculate the difference i.e. the number of LEDs on a edge – that would help speed setup along.

    Fixes or explanations to the noted anomalies.

    Overall, this seems like a great product and I’m really enjoying getting to use it!

    1. I’m testing on a 64-bit Windows 8.1 PC (with the latest driver v1.8 beta – the first installer version). I seem to be having similar problems to what Stephen described below where the end of the strip just stops working. Depending on the software on the PC and on the Atmega328 this number seems to change, but I counted 12 LEDs not working at the end. This is when I run the “normal”/original firmware on the Atmega328. Of the LEDs that do work though, they seem to be showing the correct colour information from the correct edge.

      I also seem to be having issues changing the number of LEDs from the driver software. I can change them, but they don’t appear to do anything or save. So when I restart the changes I made previously about LED strip length aren’t saved.

      I also uploaded the new fast version of the firmware for people with less than 256 LEDs in their strips, and all the LEDs light up till the end of the strip (even the length shown in the PC software was shorter than my actual strip?). Also, the very first LED never seems to light up – no matter what mode I try to run the PC software in. The edge detection for this version also seems way out. From what I can tell it is detecting the edge of the monitor, but it is no where near the correct position.

      1. I think the reason is file write permission of your user on win8.1.
        Can you open the config.ini (under the Ambiled folder) and change the values manually?
        You will see the LED count variables into the config.ini, just replace the default ones with yours.

        1. Yes, that seems to fix the problem with the normal firmware – it no longer has that bit at end of the strip that turns off, and seems to be grabbing the correct part of the screen.

          I still have problems with the “AmbiLED_Short_Double_Strip_For_Fast_FPS.hex” firmware, where the first LED doesn’t turn on and the software is not grabbing the video in the right edges of the screen. The firmwares: AmbiLED_Short_Strip_Firmware_1_0 and AmbiLED_Original_Firmware_1_0 seem to work fine at grabbing video, but both are VERY laggy at updating to match the video on the screen. This is probably a combined issue between strip refresh rate and the rate at which frames are captured and processed on the computer.

          1. AmbiLED_Short_Double_Strip_For_Fast_FPS.hex firmware dulexing the LEDs. So, you should reduce half your LED counts from driver software.

  3. Cannot calibrate this anywhere close. The colors for the left side of the screen seem to be somewhat accurate and positioned, but the colors for the right side of the screen are pulling color from the middle of my monitor? Why is there no calibration for the edges of your screen? Also the colors for the top and bottom are non-existint with any color i move around the screen. (I made a solid red 4×4 sqaure picture and moved it around my whole screen to check). The top and bottom of my screen just seem to do what they want and sometimes turn solid yellow until i switch my number count of led’s, and then switch them back. I changed all aspects and tried everything for almost 4 hours and nothing has changed. If i add one more LED on my settings, the colors completely change from blue/green to red/white? i see 0 accuracy with it so far, any info might help. running on windows 7 x64.

      1. My setup is exactly like the picture. My count of LED’s is 41 bottom right, 47side, 82top, 47side, 41 bottom left. Today when trying to get it working i now cannot even change the LED count to add or subtract, but the colors do change. When resetting the usb, all LED’s function normal and then 2 feet of my strip just turns off at(end of line). Color settings are even showing green (on 3/4 of the working led’s) when i set my screen saver to orange fullscreen. /shrug

  4. Hi guys

    First, I’d like to thank you for all nice installation instructions. I got everything work quite smoothly.

    Now that everything up an running, I’m noticing a couple of issue:

    1. The colors are off with the computer screen. For example, the video I’m playing has dark blue edges but the leds are showing red/pinkish colors instead.

    2. The transition between colors is not as smooth as I’ve seem in your videos.

    Have you seen these two behavior before?

    Thanks

    1. Hello Marko,

      1 – Can you play this video and check the LEDs. Red chip must be bright but Blue and Green chips must be off into the each LED.
      If you can see BLUE or GREEN for RED content or similar for others , yes you right, You have a color issue and we should find the reason.
      Else, the problem is your monitor color settings or something like that.

      2- It must be completely same as video if you have same size monitor and settings. because the hardware and software is same.
      Can you check the smoothing settings if you are using AmbiBox? Or give me the Capture and transmit time values if you are using our driver software. Refresh rate must be 10-14FPS (~100ms for each frame) this is ideal ambient light refresh rate for small CPU cost.

    2. Hello!

      I had the same problem. I would recommend to use the AmbiBox software. Try GDI FS Aero screen capture limited to 10fps. Then make zones according to the amount of LEDs you have.

      Finally in the additional configurations turn off color correction, increase hue, saturation and brightness.

      This helped me to increase color precision by a lot!

      Hope this helps.

  5. Hi,
    Thanks for this great product guys!
    Is there a way to implement the “Windows 8″ capture method of AmbiBox into your software? It’s pretty fast, and with yours the screen becomes a little laggy.
    Your AR Shortcut Method is pretty cool by the way.

  6. is it possible to set default color in config.ini and set it also as default when application starts ? or is it possible to implement this feature?

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