Trouble Shooting
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Flickering:
Your capture speed higher than color data transmission speed.
Solution for AmbiLED Software:
– Open config.ini with Notepad under AmbiLED Driver Software folder.
– Change Refresh_Interval=1 value as Refresh_Interval=50 or more. (it’s in milliseconds)
– Save config.ini
– Restart the Driver software
Solution for Other Softwares:
All ambilight softwares (including AmbiBox) have a delay function between data packages. Set the value around 100ms (10FPS). -
Stuttering in Games:
PROBLEM:
Mouse movement problems and latency in games.
Because Windows stops mouse events when Aero is on.SOLUTION:
Turn off the Aero.
Aero is the transparency layer of windows and reduces display performance.
To turn off the Aero, Right click on your Desktop, Open Personalize option, Choose Windows Basic Theme instead of Aero Themes.
for other solutions, click here
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Whoops! Errors:
Whoops! is panic mode of AmbiLED software for beta version.
We are using these message boxes to show every possible error during test versions.For example, if you see this message box in Windows 8.1, probably, you read “Couldn’t register the hot key” error message in same message window. Mean, Windows cannot register the AmbiLED shortcut keys. They will not work.
Unfortunately, Windows 8.1 is not supporting some old windows features. We are working on it and I hope we will resolve this problem in Alpha version of the software.
Some of users reported, Run As Administrator and Run this program in compatibilty mode: Windows 7 or XP options resolving the problem in some versions.You can see different Whoops! messages in the current software. This is completely normal. Please send us the error text if someone didn’t send yet below. These messages helps us for making it better.
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No Action:
Probably, your COM port setting is wrong or have a problem with cabling or driver.
Solution:
– Check the cabling first. Strip cable colors must be same with this photo
– Check the Com Port number (video)
– Install the driver properly if you cant see the com port or have any problem with it. -
AmbiLED doesn’t capture entire screen. (Windows)
PROBLEM:
The entire screen region is not captured. When running in 1920×1080, only 1536×864 from the top left is used for capture. The reason is the DPI scaling setting in Windows, which scales up graphics to make them more visible on high DPI screens or for screens viewed from a greater distance.SOLUTION:
Turn off DPI scaling for the AmbiLED program. Open properties for the AmbiLED exe, and in the Compatibility tab check “Disable display scaling on high DPI settings”. (Thanks to Albin for the solution)
Primary Checklist to find the problems before to ask.
If you have any problem with any stage of the list, please write it a comment blow. We will answer your question shortly.
- Remove everything from controller,
- Plug the LED strip to the controller box,
- Plug the power adapter to the controller. (The adapter must be connected to the main and running)
- The strip will flashes for few microseconds in random color. If it flashes, your strip connected correctly without any short or problems.
- Plug the USB cable
- You will hear “do-ding” sound from your computer if the driver installed properly. (not “di-di-dind”)
- Check the color sensor of the controller in a dark place. You will see short blue blinks for 3 seconds when you connected the USB port. This mean CPU is working. If you can’t see, no worry, it’s really dimmed blue light, you need complete darkness to see. We are testing every controller before ship, so, it must be work.
- The controller will send single heartbeat like blink signal to the strip(it takes 5 seconds). This is start-up sequence of AmbiLED to show CPU is working and LED strip connected properly and working.
- Run the driver software.
- Driver software, the software will reset the CPU if your com port is right. And you will see the start-up sequence again.
- Software will take the control and change the led colors depends on your display.
Received my AmbiLED earlier and installed it, all the LED’s are lit but I am getting constant flickering from them, not sure what the issue is, any tips or help about this type of issue?
Here is video I uploaded for you to view: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eLIJTnJKXj4
I have the current LED lights setup:
TOP: 32
Left: 20
Right: 20
Bottom Left: 16
Bottom Right: 16
Gap: 0
COM Port: 3
Mode: Default
I’ve tried Aspect Ratio Default and 16:9
I’ve tried Full Screen mode and still the same issues.
Thank you.
Hi R.J,
Please,Run it as administrator, if you put the files into the restricted folders. Scanned area and display size looking different in your setup. Your capture time is very short, I guess the software cannot read the Ini file properly or file corrupted(or access denied by computer). So, First update your driver and be sure it’s working properly. Second, put the files into the C root folder or D and be sure about permissions. Then run it as administrator. Then run settings for your led count.
If the problem persists, restart your computer and open the config.ini file with text editor and copy the content here.
I will write some debug options into the software in next version to find problems easily, but now this is only way to find it.
Hi Creator, thank you for replying.
I found out that I followed your Installation video and not the step-by-step picture graphs so I took the LED strip off and placed it back according your your graphical photos and re-calibrated the number of LED’s but I’m still getting flickering from the lights just from them being idle on the desktop. Here is a video showing the Desktop flickering: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QKIar30bOd8&list=UU4dEJ0GYfHjT_7uHv7hASTA
I’ve tried all aspect ratios, I’ve counted the LED lights and they are accurate but the flickering is constant.
The Pseudo Full Screen seems to work as intended but I’m not sure, here is a video of me using the CTRL+ALT+F12 shortcut: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g4A1Q9arDlE&list=UU4dEJ0GYfHjT_7uHv7hASTA
Files are not in a restricted folder, running as Administrator, no compatibility mode active, I’ve re-downloaded the install files and the driver is up to date, files are in C: drive.
config.ini
[MAIN]
PortName =COM3
FRAME_LED_LEFT =20
FRAME_LED_TOP =34
FRAME_LED_RIGHT =20
FRAME_LED_BOTTOM_LEFT =16
FRAME_LED_BOTTOM_RIGHT =16
FRAME_LED_GAP =0
Refresh_Interval=1
Power_Level =20
Thank you.
Just a little update, I’ve tried to play a few games in Windowed-Fullscreen with Pseudo Full Screen enabled/disabled and the flickering is pretty high.
Fullscreen games and Pseudo Full Screen enabled/disabled and the flickering is still present but not too bad, but, it is flickering during loading screens in-game. All cables are connected and attached properly, so I’m at a loss on my end. ):
I look forward to the Debug Options being implemented as we don’t have many options on our ends.
Windows 7 64bit
Intel i5 3570k
16,384MB RAM
GTX 660-OC
Dual Screen setup, main monitor is 1920×1080 and it is the main monitor for gaming and it is the one that has the AmbiLED HD installed, second monitor is only for web work, so I’m not using it with the AmbieLED HD setup.
Hopefully we can get this sorted out just in case I’m not the only user experiencing the issues.
Thank you again Creator.
I posted two-replies for you Creator and they were awaiting Moderation Approval and now they don’t seem to be showing up on my end. Please look into that please, I gave you information you requested and a couple of links showing my issues. If they are just getting deleted then I’m not happy with that….
Hi R.J.
You sent 3 comments in 5 hours. No worry about your comments or answer. We were just celebrated the new year and slept during this time. Happy new year too
Anyway,
Your flickering and display problems are different.
In your first video, it is a communication problem between devices (PC-Controller-Strip)
At first be sure about your electricity and near parasite sources. USB port communication is almost noise proof, So, please check the cabling between devices and update your USB driver
http://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/VCP.htm
In second video, there is no communication problem, but captured display size and strip output are completely different.
Our software is capturing primary display and detecting the edges (use default aspect ratio mode) And reading the pixels on the edges.
So, Output must be completely black when edges are black. But it’s detecting the center of your screen.
I guess you are using something special on your setup for dual display settings or your display driver doing this without your permission.
Please test the AmbiLED with simple and native windows setup first to eliminate system problems. A laptop helps a lot if you have.
We are writing some extra debug options into the software and we will release it in 10-15 days.
If you can find the problem and resolve, please let me know during this period.
This is an opensource fun project, not a retail product, so we need your help to make it better.
PC, Controller, Strip, USB Cables are all properly equipped. I am not near any parasite power sources, and my USB drivers are all up to date.
My capture display size is set at 1920×1080 which is native. I’m not running any special setup for dual monitor, main monitor is the one that has the AmbiLED HD installed. I have tried ALL aspect ratios and have been messing with it for the past 4-hours and I still cannot find what the problem is. Display driver settings are all accurate on my end.
I do not have a laptop to test. I am not tech savy with this to troubleshoot the issues on my own, but I want to note that the cable running from the LED strip may be faulty on my end. If I touch the red/white/black cables running from the LED strip that connect to the AmbiLED Sensor Module then my LED strip goes off, even when I detach and reattach the red/white/black cable I have to jiggle the wires until the LED strip comes back on. This points to me that the cable is faulty, could this be the reason for my flickering?
Can you offer to take my product back and replace it or test it for me, or do you offer any type of warranty?
Again, I’m not running anything special on my end, I followed your installation guide and download the .zip file as advised, drivers are all up to date and my LED count is accurate. So I’m at a loss on my end, I will have to discontinue use until the debug mode is released and hopefully that can solve my issue, but at this point I have tried everyone on my end multiple times and have re-installed multiple times. ):
Was looking forward to easy installation and hassle free use, while others are having no issues on their end it seems that someone has to and that fell onto me. Again, pretty sure my red/white/black cable for the LED strip that connects to the AmbiLED HD sensor module is faulty for me.
Sorry for bothering you on New Years. ):
Just tested the AmbiLED HD on a second pc and get the same results, I want to say the red/white/black cables from the LED strip that connects to the AmbiLED HD sensor module are faulty causing the constant flickering.
As for the LED strips picking up the picture from the middle of my monitor, I placed 1 into the gap LED and that seems to have resolved that issue.
But yes, the cable I mentioned must be faulty, my lights randomly stop and I have to jiggle the wires (red/white/black) around to get the LED’s to come back on. Can you replace this for me so I can test furthermore?
TOP LED: 34
Right LED: 20
Left LED: 20
Bottom left: 16
Bottom right: 16
Gap: 1
Seemed to fix the picture being picked up from the center of the screen.
Now just need to fix the constant flickering and possiblyreplace the LED strip (red/white/black) cable which I want to assume is causing the constant flickering.
Possibly send me a replacement LED strip so I can test that please and if it doesn’t fix the issue then I can kindly send it back to you. Which ever is easiest for us.
Thank you.
Thank you for your detailed inspection. This is better,now we can resolve it easily.
I noted every problem and solution by backers, so, I’m updating the web site continuously to resolve future problems easily.
You can fix the cable your self if you can use a soldering iron, but since you said you are not tech savy, I will send a strip and a controller against connector problems. Please replace the faulty one and send the rest back.
Please can contact with me by Kickstarter personal message system for shipping details.
No worry about bothering, just give me time to resolve problems. We are packing and talking with backers continuously and it is taking time.
Hi, I got my unit yesterday but I’m having problems with the driver on windows 8. On plugging it in it is displayed as Unknown device and actually I’m not even sure that’s the ambiled. Windows doesn’t accept the provided drivers as a match. I’ve already disabled the digitally signed driver check that was new in windows 8 (as I’ve done before for my arduino environment on a different computer), but here it seems as if the basic device without the driver is not recognized. The only device showing up as unknown is listed under “Other devices” and it remains when I unplug the ambiled…
@chrismaddahl, inovatek and whoever notices stuttering
I haven’t received my AmbiLED HD yet, but tried the software anyway after your post about the stuttering in 24hz refresh rate on kickstarter.
I noticed the same thing, extreme stuttering when the screen is set to 24hz refresh rate (like 10fps) when watching movies, AND some stuttering when moving windows around in 60hz refresh rate.
Interestingly, both refresh rates look perfect when disabling aero, you might want to test if this still works correctly with the Ambiled connected.
Hi again, I think I have the driver working now. Next issue..
The software crashes with the following error:
System.InvalidOperationException: Couldn’t register the hot key.
at AmbiLED_HD.KeyboardHook.RegisterHotKey(ModifierKeys modifier, Keys key)
at AmbiLED.Form1..ctor()
I’m running Windows 8.1 Pro with x64. Please let me know if you need more information. Thanks.
Hi Albin,
Can you run the program as administrator? (Right click on exe, then options, Compatibility, check run as administrator)
We didn’t test it under 8.1 and it’s looking a Hot Key Registration permission problem. Let me know about situation. I can compile the software without hotkey for you.
Hi,
I ran it as admin and it still reports the exception. But I didn’t notice before that the application doesn’t actually crash, the exception is handled. I thought it crashed because the program disappeared but it was still there in the notification area. So it’s not a fatal problem for me. I’ll still be happy to help you solve it so let me know what more I can do.
Regards,
Albin
I confirm the hotkey error message. I have tried the system on a Dell XPS M9530 laptop with Win 8.1, 64 bits.
I shows on every startup but the app seems to work nevertheless.
On this laptop I could setup the number of leds and the preview was actually useful. The number of enabled leds was perfectly accurate, being able to turn off or on exactly one led. On my Win7 PC the preview was completely useless as every time I am pressing the Save button, other leds show up in various colors (even with random dark gaps).
So, back to the Dell laptop. It’s one of the most performant laptops available, but once I enable AmbiledHD, it works like a 10 year old laptop, making viewing Youtube videos painful to unbearable.
This is the second computer I am trying. Please describe the hardware and software you were running in your demo. Perhaps AmbiledHD can only perform with that particular setup.
Some more feedback on setting up the leds. It would be more useful to set all the number to 0 by default, allowing the user to start from one end and set the number of leds to the other end, testing one side at the time. It would also be very useful to allow editing in the number field, so that I can write in there 50, without having to wait holding one arrow button to slowly change the number.
It would also be helpful to light every side a different color, so that if it comes with predefined values, people can see where each side ends. Initially I thought it worked like that (on the PC which was flickering random colors), but it turns out (on the win 8.1 laptop) that they all just light up white.
Me again, I found another problem with the program. It crashes when my computer enters sleep mode or when I switch users. I saved the crash information but I think it’s too long to post here. The most relevant parts of the call stack are probably these:
System.ComponentModel.Win32Exception: The handle is invalid
at System.Drawing.Graphics.CopyFromScreen(…)
at AmbiLED_HD.ScreenShot.CaptureImage(…)
at AmbiLED.Form1.Calculate()
Hi Albin,
Your computer cutting the connection and stopping the capture system when switching between users or sleeping to avoiding the conflicts . We have a sleep detection in the code but maybe it’s not working on win8.1 .
I noted this problem to tests. I hope we can find a solution for that. The current software have a panic mode for every possible error, this is why you are receiving long debug data in an error screen.
We will close this mode after stable version and add some self healing codes.
I am on Windows 7 and I also get the error after every time my computer goes to sleep.
Is it possible to get only the Controller without Cables, Strips etc.
Yes you can if we can manufacture more than backed.
Actually, we are not planning to sell AmbiLED products after fulfill our promises. This was a fun project for us and really costly for money and time. And also opensource. So, you can buy the strip and arduino pro mini boards from ebay and make yourself. You can find the documents under project repository. https://code.google.com/p/ambiled-hd/
So I got my ambileds today. And I’m having trouble getting them working. I first hooked up the lights to my computer without putting them on the tv to make sure they worked. After I installed the driver everything was working great. I installed the leds to the back of my monitor then hooked it up to my computer again to get the number of leds on each side right before I wall mounted it again. It will turn on for 3 seconds each time I plug the usb into my computer but now I cannot get the lights to work again. I’m not sure what to try
Hi Justin,
It was working but now it’s not after second installation? Please check the cabling and the possible shortcuts. The LED strip is conductive material and you should be careful if your tv has metallic back.
Also electrostatic discharge or voltage difference because of bad grounding burns most of electronic device when connecting.
Can you follow the check list above? It is better way to finding the problems.
Hey so i have been having problems with my LEDs. As you saw before I had them working then when i put them on the TV they stopped working. I ran through the troubleshooting at the top of this page(as suggested) and everything worked great. I watched a Movie with them and really enjoyed them. I turned off my computer and when i turned it back on i couldn’t get the amileds to turn on. they would do the 3 second flash but that is it. so i’ve been in the process of getting a new computer in the last week so i figured i would just wait to hook them up to my new computer to see if i could get them working on here. i just ran though the trouble shoot at the top of the page again and everything is good up til number 8. the LEDs do their heartbeat like flash then after that i can’t seem to get them working. I think its probably a software problem but not sure how to fix it.
Did you tried AmbiBox?
http://www.ambiledhd.com/2015/01/14/ambibox-settings-for-ambiled-hd/
Hi,
Thank you for the product and the lovely Christmas card! I’ve just set the system up and I almost love it
It’s functionality seems alright, but it slows my computer quite badly, to the point where my mouse pointer is moving in sequences. When playing videos, it seem to have a delay of about 0-1 second, so it’s not smooth as in your demo video. The app is taking less than 1% of my CPU so it’s not that. Perhaps it is related to the USB Serial driver.
The reported capture time is around 70ms and trasmit time around 50ms.
P.S. The URL field requested by this form points to a screenshot of my Windows system info.
P.P.S. The light level seems to have no effect in color select mode.
Hi Vlad,
The software is using very small amount of CPU as you said. And USB to Serial hardware is the most common hardware in the world(FTDI). Youd system info looking OK and similar with my one.
If you are using something special on your system please check it. Your display lag looking like “stuttering” problem and you can find a lot of solution on the web about it mostly about disabling Aero of Windows 7.
By the way, If the strip delay persists without display stuttering. You should remove and install the USB serial driver from another source. You can find the drivers here: http://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/VCP.htm
About Light level on color select mode. Yes you right, you can not use default light level options there, just use darker colors to make it darker. May be we should add an option for it.
I’m sorry guys, but the product in its current state is unusable. With Aero enabled, my desktop’s FPS drops by about 10-15 FPS, which is very annoying. That should not happen as I have a PC with strong hardware. Even if I disable Aero, it still doesn’t work as expected. The deskop FPS is much better, but that’s expected without Aero to begin with.
If it helps knowing, my PC is connected to a 50″ plasma TV and the output resolution is the standard full HD.
I got rid of a bad flickering which was related to a particular USB plug on my computer, but the random flickering is still there. When I play a Youtube video, it looks like it’s working, but if I pause, it flickers random colors around the TV. I could deal with that, but even when it is not flickering, the color changing is not instant as I was expecting to be, from the demo video. I have tried all available USB to serial drivers to no effect.
The color select mode is also not good in its current form. That is because there is no control over the intensity and pretty much any color, no matter how dark it is lights up my living room. Besides this, trying colors is a nightmare, as I have to right-click the systray icon, open the menu, choose the option, select a color, click “save” and do that all over again to tweak the color. It badly needs an instant preview.
Another problem is that it does not work with XBMC. At all. I am switching to AmbiledHD from Philips Hue, which I was using with an XBMC plugin and was working decently. I am surprised to see that there is almost the same delay for changing the lights, in AmbiledHD as it was with Philips Hue (which sends the data over the network, to a box and then wirelessly to a light bulb).
I am hoping to see much improvement with the newer software versions. Let me know if I can help you with any other information, or if you want me to test something.
I have quite a few laptops around the house which I will use the following days to test and see if there’s any difference. Will keep you posted.
Thanks!
Just wait for a few days. We will publish AmbiBox support for AmbiLED. So, you can use AmbiBox software, It has Winodows 8 mode and different capture systems, you can choose the right one for you.
So far it’s working alright, except when I click on the status bar icon it kinda dims for a while then ramps back up.
When I full screen videos it seems to work ok, just lags by 1/4 of a second, which is a little distracting when the shot is changing a lot. Also makes my desktop frame rate plummet to 15fps.
I had this issue with another led system, they had an option in the config to sample the screen less often, this improved lag both of the video playback and of the led changing. maybe the resolution is the problem? I’m running 2560×1440 but I have an i7 and gtx 660, so there’s plenty of power.
Hi Devin,
Yes you right, the problem is the resolution. We are using windows core screen capture functions since Windows8 have huge problems with directX capture (also Win7 have in some configurations)
Windows Core working simple and better but the resolution is affecting the capture speed. So, I guess your Capture time values more than 150 miliseconds in current resolution. We are searching for a solution with windows core.
It we can’t do that, We will add an option into the software for DirectX or Windows Core. Please wait for stable version of the software and push us for making it better
Hello again, happy new year!
I noticed another thing in my setup. It seems that the screen area that is captured on my system is not the full screen resolution. Maybe in the same way as for R.J. above? But my system only has one monitor; a TV running 1920×1080. The LEDs map nicely in the upper left corner of the screen but the lower right of the capture area seems to be at 1536×864. I noticed that because I have a wallpaper program that shows the same issue. When I tell it to stretch the wallpaper to the entire screen, then it just stretches it to to 1536×864… Is there any alternative way you can try to grab the screen resolution? Thanks again
Hi Albin,
R.J. resolved the problem with the GAP number to 1. So, It’s looking like a mathematical problem or something like that for small size monitors. We are using simple mathematics so, this is possible in small LED counts.
About capture methods, Please read Devin’s question and my answer in this page.
Hello, I set up mine just like your installation video (the controller is on the left side when I’m looking at the screen).
But the leds don’t display color of the screen correctly. The bottom color of my screen displaying on the left side, and The right side color of my screen displaying on the bottom.
FRAME_LED_LEFT =19
FRAME_LED_TOP =33
FRAME_LED_RIGHT =20
FRAME_LED_BOTTOM_LEFT =16
FRAME_LED_BOTTOM_RIGHT =16
FRAME_LED_GAP =0
Please don’t follow the video and follow our setup instructions at “AMBILED HD SETUP” section. You will find every detail there.
LEDs must be start from the center not from the left corner, It’s changed in the fist days of our Kickstarter campaign.
Hi
How do I get the ambiled to ignore / compensate for black strips on movies?
Tried all the settings I could find, like setting the aspect ratio but can’t get it to work.
Everything else is working great.
And thank you for the Christmas card
Hi Magnus,
Using short-cut is the better option to eliminating stripes.
You can find the details here: http://www.ambiledhd.com/settings/#aspect_ratio
Happy Christmas again
Hello!
I recently bought a Lightpack, but your product has got me really thinking!
Would LOVE to have that level of accuracy, and no wires.
I’m using an ambilight as a way to light up a pianist. The Lightpack has too many wires, and I’d much rather just buy AmbiLED for a large 4-meter frame around the musician. Would be perfect.
Here’s how I’m currently using a Lightpack with Ambibox 2.1.6 and Winamp’s Milkdrop sound visualizer:
http://i.imgur.com/kh3oS22.jpg
Would you be willing to add a zone editor to your ambiled app?
Something that would allow me to define an area of the screen for capturing.
I understand that currently, Ambiled only captures the entire screen, and only on the main monitor, right?
Is anyone attempting an AmbiLED port to Ambibox btw? I’d love you forever…
P.
Hello Phil,
AmbiBox support coming soon.
Hello again, more info from me.
I still think the program is getting the wrong resolution from windows. It does not seem like a small number arithmetic resolution problem in my case because I can see that the capture edge is exactly where my other program also incorrectly thinks my desktop resolution ends. I will wait for software updates no problem. I tried changing my windows resolution to 1280×720 and then it captured from my full screen area all the way out to the edges as I want it to. Come to think of another thing, should I notice any difference when I change aspect ratios? Because I don’t and there’s no feedback that anything happens. Could that also be something with windows 8 perhaps?
Now another thing.
My true number of LEDs are this (total is 232):
FRAME_LED_LEFT =42
FRAME_LED_TOP =75
FRAME_LED_RIGHT =40
FRAME_LED_BOTTOM_LEFT =38
FRAME_LED_BOTTOM_RIGHT =37
FRAME_LED_GAP =0
With these settings the last LED is not lit. If I increase any of the numbers (except the gap) by one, then the last LED lights up, but all the LED colours are completely wrong. If I decrease the bottom right LEDs count by one, then the last two LEDs are off… I also have issues with the last 10-15 LEDs before the last one. These 15 or so are constantly on with a fixed colour, not reflecting what is on screen. They were not always like that, but I can’t see any pattern to it.
Next I tried this:
FRAME_LED_LEFT =42
FRAME_LED_TOP =75
FRAME_LED_RIGHT =40
FRAME_LED_BOTTOM_LEFT =15
FRAME_LED_BOTTOM_RIGHT =37
FRAME_LED_GAP =22
Result: The last 24 LEDs are off, and the 12 before them are “locked” in unchanging colour. The rest are normal.
Changed counts again, now:
FRAME_LED_LEFT =42
FRAME_LED_TOP =75
FRAME_LED_RIGHT =40
FRAME_LED_BOTTOM_LEFT =37
FRAME_LED_BOTTOM_RIGHT =37
FRAME_LED_GAP =1
Result: All LEDs up to nr 16 from the end is OK. Nr 16 is constantly on with unchanging colour, and all after it are off. I restart the program. Now all the last 16, including 16 itself are off.
Whaaat?? The more I try the less I understand… I’m still running it with admin rights and the program is located in C:\ambiledhd.
Actually it seems whatever I try now I can’t get the last 16 to light up again. I checked for connection problems with the cables but could not detect any.
Hi again
Got the aspect ratio shortcut working after changing a security setting, so it’s working now.
But got a new question. What power plug do you use (on the controller side, not the wall plug.) It’s a bit short and I need an extension.
We are using 25mm-0.8mm power jacks for android tablets.
You can find these power supplies and plugs on ebay. Or better, just cut the wire and extend.
Hi I enquired about an anti-clockwise mode for the strips a few weeks ago, just wondering if this has been implemented or if there is a newer firmware to download?
Thanks.
Hi Isaac,
We are working very hard to ship all rewards in these days. Just give me few days.
Hi,
do you have any info about the current output at different light levels?
I am concerned about current consumption over 3A, as the connectors are only specified for 3A.
How do I supply power from an additional power source to the leds?
Just connect a second adaptor to the loose end?
I bought some extra LED stripes and they have their own power cables additionally to the 3 signal/power wires.
Any problems to be expected there?
Thanks for answering in advance.
Peter
Hello Peter,
Our control electronics working with USB power and main adapter only supplying the strip.
SO, If you want to use another supply. Just remove the power plug from the controller box and supply the strip from the loose end.
I’m not suggesting dual supply because of possible voltage differences between supplies.
Hi,
i’m about to order these lights, but i’ve got some questions:
1) Is it possible to work with longer led-strips, with higher led counts/meter and as a result with more powerful adaptors to run them? Or is the ledstrip fixed at 290 cm?
2) Does it work with a 3 monitor setup?
I’m looking forward to purchasing this product, thank you!
1) Yes it’s working.
2) Sorry but no support for 3 monitors.
Hi AmblAdmin,
I would like to buy one of these but it looks like they have already went out…Am I too late to pick one up?
Please click “Pre-Order Now” burron on the right top of the page.
Trying to install my LED strip to the back of my television. The 2M tape isn’t even strong enough to hold it on while I move onto installing the next part of the strip.
Also, when I plugged the controller into the USB of my computer, no new device showed up in the device manager. I am running Windows 8.
Hello Trevor,
This is an installation problem and you should read the “permanent installation” section of the installation page.
Please write there if you have any question about installation.
Thanks
Finding the setup extremely unfriendly.
Im counting the LEDS for the settings but they don’t seem to activate according to what im counting…..
Its really annoying. I find myself just guessing numbers and putting my backround black and moving a window around the edge to test if t he led numbers are right…
Ok, I noted. We will try to find better and friendly way to doing that.
Hello, I finally got the driver to install.
Runnin on Windows 7 Ultimate x64. However, now I get the following error:
Whoops! AmbiLED HD cannot working.
System.InvalidOperationException: Couldn’t register the hot key.
at AmbiLED_HD.KeyboardHook.RegisterHotKey(ModifierKeys modifier, Keys key)
at AmbiLED.Form1..ctor()
The app still opens, but no colors are displayed by the strips. All I get is the bootup 3 second white flash and then nothing else will happen.
By the way I am running from a Windows 7 laptop to HDTV through HDMI.
Now getting this error:
************** Exception Text **************
System.InvalidOperationException: The port is closed.
at System.IO.Ports.SerialPort.Write(Byte[] buffer, Int32 offset, Int32 count)
at AmbiLED.Form1.buttonSave_Click_1(Object sender, EventArgs e)
at System.Windows.Forms.Control.OnClick(EventArgs e)
at System.Windows.Forms.Button.OnMouseUp(MouseEventArgs mevent)
at System.Windows.Forms.Control.WmMouseUp(Message& m, MouseButtons button, Int32 clicks)
at System.Windows.Forms.Control.WndProc(Message& m)
at System.Windows.Forms.ButtonBase.WndProc(Message& m)
at System.Windows.Forms.Button.WndProc(Message& m)
at System.Windows.Forms.Control.ControlNativeWindow.WndProc(Message& m)
at System.Windows.Forms.NativeWindow.Callback(IntPtr hWnd, Int32 msg, IntPtr wparam, IntPtr lparam)
This mean you removed the USB port
Run the software as administrator. Windows requires admin rights to register keys and access to the files.
what e-mail can I contact for problems with my order?
Please check your Kickstarter messages
Quick question, is there a reason for the kickstarter updates to all be backers-only? No big problem, but those who ordered their ambiled hd on your website (flytron.com) can’t read them.
Yes, because the updates for backers only. We are sharing reward info and some details about the project process.
Hi,
my screen capturing doesnt seem to work. i run on win 7 with a 1920×1080 resolution.
It doesnt matter if I try to play something on youtube or a game or if i move my curser or whatever to the sides.
the lights stay allways blue. any idea?
Thank, peter
LEDs are fully digital, so, no way to making all of them blue without any communication.
If they are turning to any color, this mean something sending data to them. If your computer have dual monitor output, maybe you should check the second monitor?
Little update.
the first leds on the lower left side till the first 90° bending seem to work. any chance it is because of a damage because of bending and the signal line got killed?
what is the standard color of the stripes without signal? might be blue?
If you broke the copper strips or LEDS, just cut the broken part and use a soldering iron to connect the parts together. You can see the cut marks and solder points on the strip.
by the way, default color is black for each LED. So, If all blue, your settings are wrong or have some capture problems.
Last but not least.
When I quit the programm the lights dont turn off.
How do I turn them off without unplugging power?
The LEDs turns off automatically in 5 seconds after communication closed. (Don’t use power sawing USB ports, if you have special mainboard with this feature)
Would you make a recommendation on the optimal distance from the led strip to the wall? I have a wall-mounted setup and don’t want to do a visible install on the sides of the monitor. I however can increase the distance between the led and the wall.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
All depends the shape of your TV back and reflection quality of your wall.
You can make a temporary installation with transparent tape to be sure.
This is what I am dealing with.
http://i.imgur.com/8CFO6zh.jpg
The middle is raised about a quarter inch or so. Would you recommend avoiding that whole area or bending to adjust for it?
my wall is flat white and I am going to be 6-8 inches from the wall.
6-8″ is more than I expected. My monitor is 15cm away and everything is fine.
No worry, just try and learn.
Hello,
I just received my package and am very excited to use it! However, I cannot get it to work with my mac running Yosemite 10.10.1. Is it compatible?
In any case, I really want to use it with my TV. Is it possible to be used on the TV or does it have to be plugged into a computer that is then plugged into the tv. I have been trying to look all over your website, but there is no clear indication whether it can be used as a standalone TV device. I appreciate the clarification, and am sure other users will to. Thank guys!
Hello Juan,
You can find the answer in Kickstarter campaign page.
The first FAQ is:
Can I use AmbiLED HD with my set-top box or similar HDMI device?
Sorry, You cant. AmbiLED HD requires a computer for color information and designed for computer based systems.
The title of Campaign page:
AmbiLED HD is the first high resolution ambient light conversion kits for computer monitors.
And in details:
on OS X
Unfortunately, OS X support isn’t our priority because of some system problems. AmbiLED HD is an open-source project and hardware communication side is very simple. All OS X developers are welcome.
——————————
Today we shared some different firmwares for your hardware. One of them is Adalight emulator. You can use an Adalight drivers software on your MAC to using our hardware with this firmware.
Here is the details:
http://www.ambiledhd.com/2015/01/15/changing-ambiled-hd-firmwares/
FIXED:
AmbiLED doesn’t capture entire screen. (Windows)
PROBLEM:
The entire screen region is not captured. When running in 1920×1080, only 1536×864 from the top left is used for capture. The reason is the DPI scaling setting in Windows, which scales up graphics to make them more visible on high DPI screens or for screens viewed from a greater distance. In my case it was set to scale 125%.
SOLUTION:
Turn off DPI scaling for the AmbiLED program. Open properties for the AmbiLED exe, and in the Compatibility tab check “Disable display scaling on high DPI settings”.
Awesome!
I will add this solution into the troubleshooting
Hi! I received and installed my package today. So far I m pretty happy with it.
I have 2 minor issues, maybe someone has a hint on this:
1.) Black bars in videos sometimes cancel the LED display. Which mode would be most advised? Will 21×9 Format display correctly if on black bars or is online movie more suited?
2.) The colors are amazingly good although I feel that the red color is always purple. No real clear red. White has the same issue, also drifting a little bit to the purple but a lot less I feel. Is there any setting I missed out?
Great work so far!
Greetings
Hi Markus,
Answer of your first question here: http://www.ambiledhd.com/settings/#aspect_ratio
For the second one: I guess your display settings are not default or may be old?
Some friends said similar things for different colors then they sold their monitors and bought new one after compared with mine
LED colors completely same with real color data of the content, but monitors are different.
Each LED including Red-Green-Blue chips. So, Red must be completely same with real RED.
For test: play this video and check the LEDs. Red chip must be bright but Blue and Green chips must be off into the each LED.
If you can see BLUE with RED, yes you right, You have a purple issue and we should find the reason.
PS: you can use AmbiBox as a temporary solution. It’s including color compensation settings. We will add similar functions into the driver software soon.
Thanks a lot! I found that AmbiBox gives me pretty good customizing possibilities especially with the capturing areas with excellent results
Was a solution ever identified to the “whoops!” error shown in this image?
http://imgur.com/PK4qLQl
I’m running Windows 8.1 Pro. Running the exe as Administrator doesn’t solve the problem.
Thanks
Chris
Please read this part of help: http://www.ambiledhd.com/help/#whoops
I have a working installation on my pi with openelec and want to connect my dreambox (Enigma2 based linux sat recveiver) via boblight / enigmalight to hyperion.
the connection is ok but i got a very fast flickering.
can you provide a config for boblight/ enigmalight?
THX
Sorry, As you can read in Hyperion setup details. These details is only for your reference. We cannot test it in every possible linux distro and you should find your own solutions if you are using different distros and setups.
If the problem is only flickering, simply add some delays into the config file to reduce refresh rates.
Also OpenElec and boblight is not a good choice. You can find thousands blog pages and forum posts about frame rate problems of boblight on openelec. This is why we are choosing RaspBMC + hyperion.
Good luck
Hi there, AmbiAdmin
I was messing a bit with my current setup and I am still using AmbiLED software and I noticed that it causes my games to develop a bit of a noticeable stutter (on-screen).
I noticed AmbiBox software was released, I was wondering if that will solve that issue or not? When I don’t have AmbiLED I notice all my games hold a steady FPS and don’t have that chugging feeling while playing….
As it stands now, I can still watch movies/videos online and not notice much of a stutter, but while having gaming session it is pretty noticeable. Essentially, I just wanted to know if I should revert over to AmbiBox Software or wait for more updates?
Thank you. ^_^
Oh and just to clarify, my AmbiLED Software CPU usage is 2%, so that is why I’m not sure why my games are developing a bit of a stutter while AmbiLED Software (LED’s) are running….
Hi RJ,
the problem is not the CPU usage or game frame rate, Windows stops the mouse events when capturing frames when Aero is enabled.
Aero is windows transparency layer. So, if you can use Aero disabled themes (like basic) your mouse event freeze rates will reduce a lot.
But it still in there. You can use AmbiBox on directX mode or with Play Claw for better results.
Hello guys,
At first, thanks for the package, it all looks nice!
I’m trying to install the package on a XBMCbuntu running pc, but i have no idea where to start. Is there anyone on the forum who could help me out? I have basic windows and xbmc knowledge, but not so much linux…
So, some help would be great!
thanks
Hi Partick,
We are not supporting Linux except RaspBMC. Because my linux skill very limited.
Some backers can help and write their own codes.This is why we made it as an open source projects.
If you can compile Hyperion on your computer I guess it works with your XBMC system but I don’t have any idea about how.
If i remember correctly you could disable the unused leds. However the unused led are still on. Even when i used the led strip settings. I got a spare length of 40 cm for future TV upgrade but now they keep lighted..
How can I fix this without cutting the strip..
Power off and power on the LED power supply. LEDs have own memory, you should reset them after strip length changed.
If you are using AmbiBox, it have some issues. you can use a black tape for spare length.
So I’ve downloaded Ambibox and finally got it working. but when i’m watching wide screen videos the black bars on top and bottom of the screen prevent the ambileds on the top and bottom from working (only on the sides as you would imagine) the only way I’ve found to fix this so far with ambibox is to change the video to a 16×9 format so it fits the screen. this solution is not ideal… how do you go about setting it up so the LEDs register from the movie not the black bars? i’ve searched the program, Ambibox website, and this website and have not found any information on how to do this on Ambibox just on the ambileds software(which i can’t seem to get working and have it work consistently)
There is no black bar solution in AmbiBox. They are calling it as “profiles”
You can set different profiles for different aspect ratios with their wizard. Then you can use shortcuts or auto profile modes to enable different profiles.
My LED strip keeps unsticking from my monitor… anyone seeing similar issues? I did clean the monitor before applying it, but every day when I get home from work, some part of the strip (usually 10-20 LEDs or so) is no longer attached. Kind of disheartening …
Please read section-8 “Permanent Strip Installation To Non-Stick Surfaces” of the installation page.
http://www.ambiledhd.com/#strip_install
Hi,
These are just some suggestions for improvements in the software as I perceive it after a couple weeks of use.
First, if I understood it right the delay in opening the application menu from the tray is because it is grabbing applications that can be used for pseudo full screen. It would be nice if that could be delayed until the user expands a sub-menu or do some other action instead, so that you get quicker access to the other options.
Second, I would like it if you simply removed the “Are you sure you want to quit?” question.
I don’t expect this to be posted I just want to give you my opinion.
Thanks.
Hi Guys,
great product! Three minor Problems so far:
1. I have installed 261 LED´s. Do I need the firmware for large strips or is the number still ok for the default FW?
2. When I configure the correct number in the tool it still seems that the picture shown is a displaced by at least 4-8 LED´s from what is shown on the screen.
3. I installed it counter clockwise since I didn´t get what part of the strip is the beginning and what´s the end.. Any chance you can include a reverse direction feature into the software?
Thx!
1. long strip firmware gives better refresh rate for your strip length.
2. This was a math problem in previous software. we resolved it in the latest one.(released today)
3. Sorry, our software is not supporting reverse direction.
Hi,
I just received my set today. I’m trying to get it to work under Openelec + Boblight (normal pc no Rasp). I have light, but no normal colors or any changing while watching a movie.
Any suggestions?
This is my boblight.conf:
interface 127.0.0.1
port 19333
[device]
name ambilight
output /dev/ttyUSB0
channels 798
type momo
interval 70000
postfix FF
rate 115200
[color]
name red
rgb FF0000
gamma 0.91
adjust 1.0
blacklevel 0.0
[color]
name green
rgb 00FF00
gamma 0.86
adjust 0.96
blacklevel 0.0
[color]
name blue
rgb 0000FF
gamma 0.95
adjust 0.8
blacklevel 0.0
type momo: our device is not momo. Use Adalight as device on settigns file and upload the adalight emulator into your controller:
http://www.ambiledhd.com/2015/01/15/changing-ambiled-hd-firmwares/
Hi Ambiled,
I have ambiled setup and working, I am using ambibox as the software in windows 8 mode (as i have windows 8). Quick question as the dev for ambibox send me your way. Why does ambiled fade out when you are at the desktop? Is there a way to lengthen this time i.e. dont fade out on desktop for x minutes without input? What file would I modify to do this?
AmbiLED fades out if 1 seconds passed without valid data. This is energy saving mode and automatic disconnection detection. If you want to increase this time, you should compile the software your self. You can find the codes in our repository.
I was wondering if you could sell more led strips or provide a link to a site were I can buy more. The strip I got I did not test before putting it on tv but it starts off white and by the time it gets to the other side it’s more of a light Amber color. I did have issues with my first corner so that could be causing the problem. I looked online and all I could fine was strips that had four lines instead of the 3 that came on the strip that came with it. Got almost everything working using ambiBox on kodi, videos seem to work fine but when I use the color music plugin the last 20 or so less don’t seem to get the control information fast enough. So if I have the whole thing set to pulse red with the music the last half do weird things if you can’t understand what I am say I will try to make a video when I get home but so far love the product.
You can buy the 60 led/m WS2812B strips from our web shop
http://www.flytron.com/home/284-ambiled-hd-ambient-light-kit-for-computer-monitors.html#/ambiled_hd_type-50cm_strip_for_ambiled
Or Ebay
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_sacat=0&_nkw=ws2812b+strip+60&_frs=1
These strips are very durable. So, I think you can resolve the problem easily.
Check the brightness settings. It must be less than %20 for ambient lights. The strips drains ~700mA per meters in %20 power.If you use it in %100 power, you need 3A power for each meters and also an additional supply wires required for each meter strip because of high current. Else, voltage drops and white turns amber. (Please read our Ambibox settings page for brightness settings)
About music plugin: Ambibox is not our software and they made a favor and add hardware support. So, we don’t have any control on it. And I think their music plugin is experimental. Unfortunately the developer is not a catty guy and really hard to contact.
Hi Ambiled,
I have installed the LED strip and software, and initially it works. However, I noticed that the last 30 LEDs were not lighting up. Modifying they hyperion config file did not help, and the bootup sequence also didn’t light up the remaining LEDs.
After a night of debugging and lots of testing (wiggling the cables and LED strips, etc), the 30 LEDs now light up, but they are now permanently on once power is plugged in.
I have also tried using ambibox on my windows setup, with no improvement. I am assuming this is a hardware issue.
Please advise.
Thank you.
Hi Pawit,
The LEDs are using digital data protocol. So, permanently on is impossible. Just reset the power supply, They will be off again.
We are testing all trips before shipping. Please count the leds. If you are using default hyperion config file, it lights up only first 178 LEDs.
How about the startup sequence? if the last 30 is not working on the sequence, yes you have a hardware issue. please check the connection between last 30 and others.
Hi Ambiled,
Thank you for your quick response.
Yes, after unplugging the power and plugging it back in again, the tailing LEDs did go off, but this needed to be done 4-5 times.
Regarding the bootup sequence also did not light up the tailing LEDs (42 in total). The LED where it starts to break is also not shining white, but a green tint.
I suspect that the green tinted LED is malfunctioning. Is there any way I can fix this? Or if it is indeed a hardware problem, what are the processes of getting it replaced?
Thanks.
Pawit
WS2812B strips are durable and fixable easily.
If you sure about the malfunctioned LED unit, you can cut the strip from the both side of the LED unit and solder back.You will see the markers on the strip for cutting.
Or just use a jumper wire to connect DI of the malfunctioned one to next one.
DI is Data Input, DO is the Data Output of each unit.
http://www.kiwi-electronics.eu/image/cache/data/products/led/strips/LED-WS2812B-BK-60-3-800×533.jpg
Note: If the unit was failed, maybe data output failed too. So, cutting this part or removing the LED (and adding a jumper) is better than using a simple jumper wire.
Note2: If you need more help just let me know, We can write a manual about fixing.
I just installed my ambiled. Everything seems to be fine except the software makes the my desktop stutter and also the light stutters with it. F.e. if I move a window around the desktop it, it looks like the desktop frame rate is really low. But when I move the mouse only, it moves without problems.
This does not happen when I use “color select” mode. Video plays ok on desktop, but ambiled lights are very jaggy and not smooth at all.
What I have tried so far.
1. Changing values for “delay” from 1ms to 100ms.
2. Ambibox
3. Lower desktop resolution (my default is 3440×1440)
4. Turning off Aero
Nothing has worked so far. I have powerful pc and it should not cause problems (16gb of ram, i7-4790k, gtx 980…). Games work fine, but ambiled stutters. I would like to check previous drivers, but I couldn’t find those.
I guess you are using win8 or 8.1
Did you tried Windows8 and directX capture modes of ambibox?
My comment is still waiting moderation but two others have gone through and you answered them??
The site under spam bot attack. We are searching for the real comments in few thousands fake one :/
We are working on it. sorry for that.
I finally got the Ambiled HD setup on Ubuntu x64 (key was Hyperion needs to be run as Root, no error just no LEDs light up otherwise!) however I’m disappointed with the performance, but Im not sure its functioning correct?
At default settings (100ms interval, XMBC video playing etc) its jittery and overly “chaotic”. I previously had a Lightpack setup, while having only 10channels it was far smoother and basically worked as a video watching aid. The AmbiledHD as is cant be used without being incredibly distracting.
Things I’ve tried:
– Reduced WhiteLvl and Gamma further than defaults in your guide
– Tried enabling smoothing, no meaningful difference
– Changed the refresh/interval from 10 to 200Hz, either gets really laggy or even more jittery.
– Currently running the new short LED strip firmware (Ive 178LED version).
Am I missing something here?
I think, you tried everything that I can try. So, I don’t have any idea now.
Can you take a video and share? maybe it helps.
About the refresh rate, Lightpack is faster than Ambiled, because it’s only 10 channel. Your AmbiLED setup’s resolution is 17.8 times higher than previous resolution. So, the refresh rate will be less than previous setup but not much. If you have a jittering or chaotic output problem, probably the reason is settings. So a video helps a alot to understand.
I think I understand his problem.
I also experience what he is telling.
Because of the higher resolution every bright and dark spot is displayed, instead of what Philips does with their ambi-light which takes the average of e.g. a quarter of screen length. Lets say the corner is the colour mix of 15cm horizontal and 15cm vertical. And so on but not 30 different colours
Its a bit hard to explain but if you know how it looks with a philips tv you know whats up.
I see you’re also using Ubuntu with XBMC. I finally got it working too, only i’m having problems with making hyperion autostart. Did you manage to make hyperion autostart when XBMC boots?
Sorry, I’m not a Linux expert :/ google helps better than me about linux things.Sorry for that.
This link describes how to autostart hyperion with xbmc : http://forum.kodi.tv/showthread.php?tid=180472
I’m having a similar issue. I have included a video. I can’t watch videos with this setup as it is incredibly distracting.
I am using the latest Kodi with Hyperion.
My LED setup is 68 LEDs width, 34 LEDs height
The video is taken with the long strip firmware configured at 34×19
Changed the framegrab interval to 5hz, still laggy
Changed the framegrab size to 32×32, still laggy
Turning smoothing to linear makes it more tolerable, but it is still way behind. Makes me less dizzy but it’s still disorienting during action scenes.
Without smoothing: http://youtu.be/6YjSXOslZdU
With smoothing: http://youtu.be/5FCZPD_98pM
Configuration is looking OK but refresh rate is looking less than 10hz.(may be 5)
did you tries with 100ms interval? any problem with it?
http://www.ambiledhd.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/hyperion1.png?189db0
Hi guys,
just as a note for you: under Windows 8.1 the Software is unable to save its led strip settings if it’s installed in C:\Program Files (x86). For future updates, consider putting the config in the users’ AppData folder..
Cheers,
David
Yes you right about AppData folder,Noted for next update
I have two problems with my 230 LED strip. The strip has a blueish tint at the start of the strip, and gradually gets more red till the end of the strip, the brighter the setting, the more extreme the tint, but its slightly visible even if i set brightness to minimum.
The other thing, in the second half of the strip the brightness constantly flickers a bit when displaying brighter colors. Could it be that the power is just not enough for 230 LEDs?
Btw a post from me a week ago (27.1.) on Firmware-Page is still awaiting moderation, maybe it got drowned in spam
The reason is same for your both problem,
Your brightness level too high. The strip ICs designed for lightning not for ambient light, So, they have 5-8 times more power than required.
You need 3 Amper/m current for full brightness. But in AmbiLED we are using total 3A power supplies that enough for ~5 meters strip at %20 brightness.
If you are using AmbiBox, please follow our manual. All settigns must be same for a good result.
Problem 1: The strip is draining more than supplied and voltage drops looking as color change on the end. You should reduce the brightness, The wall brightness must me %80-%50 less then screen your display for a good ambient light experience. %10-%20 brightness is enough for %95 of the displays.
Problem 2: The brightness settings of AmbiBox on %100, and it’s trying to illuminate some LEDs with %100 (250-255 as byte value. We are using 250-255 data bytes as strip end command in AmbiLED firmware. So, this is why it’s flickering after it detected the “bright” point.
About your previous post. It was toooo long to put in help page. Long posts is a big problem to find simple solution in help page. This is why I cant approve it to show but read. As I said before 10-12FPS is enough for human eye. All numbers that you shared is screen FPS not the content. Cinema is 24FPS and 3D Cinema is 12 FPS for each eye, %95 of internet video content is 23.9FPS. We don’t need more for an “ambient light” when content is ~24. But in your case, AmbiBox is not our software and have some problems with communication (both, talking with developer and controller) It’s sending half of the calculated FPS to AmbiLED. So, your current FPS is 5, if it says 10. Please download and try our latest official software. Still beta but better.
Ok i’m getting really frustrated. I first tried the ambiled software. got it to work. but it didn’t work consistently.
So i then tried ambibox. i found this program really hard to navigate. i got it working but had problem with movies that had the black bars and with full screen games.
My brother just got his. i helped him install his and they work great. played around with the software for a bit but it works…..consistently……but he’s running windows 7.
So I came home and figured “the ambiled program works now. i’ll go home and fiddle with mine and get them working” So here i am…sitting here trying to get this to work. can you please help?
I am running windows 8.1 I’ve had the program working but it randomly stops working (when i turn off my computer and start it up again it seems to just decide if it wants to work.) i always get the heartbeat like flash whenever i turn on my computer or unplug the USB then plug it back in.
The heartbeat is the startup sequence of the controller and completely normal.
The software is under development and in BETA state now, So, we are recording all bug reports to resolve.
We noted some problems specially for Windows 8 and 8.1 but resolving them is not easy, as you may know, also Microsoft canceled the Windows 8 core project and returning to old one with Windows 10. Anyway, we are on it and solved some of them on v1.8.3.0.
But I’m not sure what is “randomly stop” problem. Is it really random? or after an action? because we didn’t received a bug report about that.
Seems entirely random. Fired up my computer to check to see if you guys have responded and it working now. last time i had my computer on they didn’t work at all. turned on my computer fired it up (didn’t change any setting between then and now) and it works. guess i’ll write back if i have a problem with it again.
Thanks for the lights they are amazing. i hope they continue to work.
Was wondering if I can just buy a stronger power supply to replace the one in the kit. If so, what is the plug size that connects to ambiledhd controller and max amps I can push?
We are using 2.5mm(outer) x 0.8mm(inner) power plug on the controller.
These plugs can handle maximum 4A. The controller electronics working with USB power. So, you can supply the strip directly instead of power plug on the controller.
If you want to run the LEDs with high brightness, you should supply the strip from both end to reduce the line resistance.
The maximum current is 3A per meters.
Feature request:
There is no hotkey I can see for toggling the mode. Seems like the most important one to me.
A hotkey to toggle between sleep/default would be very useful.
For now I’ve got this working with an AutoHotKey script. I have the Blue button on my Media Centre remote turning the LEDs on/off.
I imagine it could be very useful for others.
Cheers!
Chris.
Noted for next update
Is there a way for AmbiLED to use APA-102’s? I am trying to get either Adalight or AmbiLED to run through Ambibox, but neither one of these seems to embrace the APA-102’s I have. Wiring is all good, that’s been checked more than once.
If you can change the colors by NeoPixel arduino examples. Yes you can. Else, No.
I finally got my strip applied with a better adhesive, but (on a clean install of Windows) nothing happens when launching the software. My strip flashes when I first connect power; when connecting USB I get the slow fade from bright to off. But that’s it. Nothing else works. The same thing happens in AmbiBox. What should I do here?
you should install FTDI driver first and follow the installation steps before run the softwares. If you installed it correctly and set in the driver software as we mentioned in installation pages, Follow the “checklist” in this help page and let me know which one is ok or not.
I installed my AmbiLED HD yesterday on my 21:9 screen with 3440×1440 resolution, it looks awesome so far, really impressed.
Two questions:
What’s specification/name of the power supply plug at the box? I plan to use one of the powered USB ports at the monitors back to supply the AmbiLED and looking for a right cable.
And second, when running the AmbiLED Software I experience some performance issues on the computer, especially when moving around windows but even when watching videos (haven’t tried gaming yet). I’m on Windows 8.1 (i7-4790K, GTX 970, SSD, 16gb ram). I already read that the AmbiBox Software might bring some improvement as it has more settings for the capturing – any tips with which settings I should play around first?
Keep up the great work!
cheers
Aaron
Hi Aaron,
The plug is “2.5mm/0.8mm”, almost all Android tablets using same plug for charging. So you can find it as “2.5mm android cable”,
Unfortunately standard USB ports cannot handle high current requirements of the LEDs, but you can try.
We know this performance issue on Win8 machines. We tried a lot of solution but still no luck. Luckily, it’s working perfect on Win10(developer edition).
Microsoft tried a different core on Win8 but returned back to legendary core on Win10 and Win10 will be free for Win8 users.
So if we cant find a solution for Win8 users, Microsoft’s own solution is coming soon.